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Is the Inland Taipan for you?

Updated: Aug 7

Keeping the Inland Taipan Oxyuranus microlepidotus

NATURE 4 YOU – Tie and Scott Eipper


#Inlandtaipan #keepinganInlandtaipan #taipan #venomoussnake #venomoussnakehusbandry #elapid #australianelapid #breedingtaipans #taipanvenom

The Inland Taipan is a species of snake that must only be kept by experienced elapid

keepers. The toxicity of the venom combined with the fact that they can be unpredictable make the Inland Taipan a species suited for the more experienced keeper.

We at Nature 4 You do not endorse the keeping of venomous snakes without suitable experience and only when you have the appropriate permits and facilities to care for the animal properly.


SPECIES OVERVIEW:

COMMON NAMES: Inland Taipan, Western Taipan, Fierce Snake, Small-scaled Snake

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Oxyuranus microlepidotus

ADULT SIZE: 220cms

ADULT WEIGHT: 3+kg

LIFE EXPENTANCY: Inland Taipans have been known to live over 25yrs in captivity.


The Inland Taipan is native to Australia, found in far western Queensland, north-eastern South Australia and adjacent areas of the the Northern Territory. A small population has been found near Coober Pedy in South Australia. Inland Taipans live on gibber plains, clay pans and similar areas of the arid channel country. They shelter underground in the deep cracks in the soil. Inland Taipans are one of only a few species of snakes which change their colouration depending on the season. In Summer they are light gold to pale brown above with dark brown or black markings giving a herringbone appearance. The head is usually a glossy black to dark brown which lightens with age. In Winter the colouration darkens considerably to dark brown to almost black above and the head will almost match the body. The underneath is bright yellow, usually with orange spotting or greyish mottling. A fast, shy snake - they prefer to flee rather than have interaction with humans. They are a large elapid with a moderately robust body. Their venom is strongly neurotoxic, with prothrombin activity. Inland Taipans are common in captivity and are bred frequently. Inland Taipans are reasonably easy to keep and can be quite calm. However, they can also be unpredictable. While many keepers refer to them as placid, some Inland Taipans can be every bit as nervous and defensive as the Coastal Taipan, Oxyuranus scutellatus scutellatus.


seasonal colour changes in the Coastal taipan

The colour change from Winter -Summer




HOUSING:

A single Inland Taipan needs a terrestrial enclosure about 600mm wide X 1200mm Long X 450mm High. The housing of juveniles is best done by housing them in plastic style enclosures with ventilation holes either drilled or melted with a soldiering iron. This plastic tub can be placed inside the larger enclosure. Plastic tubs are often utilised for small snakes as they are cheap, easy to clean and seal very well. This is important as a small snake is able to escape through very small gaps, which are often present in timber enclosures. Juveniles can be kept in smaller conditions but should be kept by themselves. Not only can cage-mates turn on each other, the unpredictability of their nature combined with the toxicity of their venom makes one snake per cage a lot easier and safer to deal with. We house our juveniles singularly in plastic tubs. These tubs have clips on the side to lock the lids in place, are readily available and easy to modify. We start our hatchling Taipans in 7L tubs measuring 32cms L x 21cms W x 12cms H and move them up to appropriately sized caging as they grow. We use paper towel on the bottom of these tubs as it is easy to clean - simply remove the soiled paper towel and replace with new.


The adult cage can have a variety of substrates ranging from bark to paper. We personally use either a kitty litter made of recycled paper – it helps absorb some of the smell and clumping “deposits” or newspaper or butcher’s paper as its easily cleaned. Other effective substrates include synthetic grass mats, bark chips and paper towel. If using the bark chips for a more natural look make sure no fertilizers or chemicals have been added by reading the bags and try to avoid as much dust in the enclosure as possible. If using synthetic grass, you should have 2 pieces cut to size so when one gets soiled the other can be put in while other gets washed. Pet shops sell a variety of suitable substrates as well as the synthetic grass and bark chips that are available from hardware shops.


Inland taipans need cover in which they can hide. This can be provided by a

hollow log or a rock near the back wall, leaf litter etc. Pet shops have an ample range of naturalist looking hides readily available also. At least one hide should be in the warm end and one in the cool end of the cage. The use of trap boxes as hides is an excellent idea with this species.


The cage also needs to be well ventilated. A series of cupboard vents cut into

both the front and back of an adult enclosure work well allowing the air to flow though. In housing for younger animals the holes should be placed in both the lid and around the sides of the plastic containers.


The water bowl should large enough for the snake to soak in. This is invaluable in the hottest parts of summer and also for sloughing. This should be situated in the cool end of the cage. The water bowl should be washed when clean water is added, not just topped up. Not washing the bowl and continually topping up the water can lead to illness in the animal and a green water bowl.


The cage should be cleaned out at least once a week to prevent the build-up of germs etc. Cleaning out weekly will also allow you to check the animal over whilst removing them from the cage. This is when you will pick up things you may miss from just looking at the animal in the enclosure. However, traces of faeces and urine should be cleaned as soon as it’s noticed.


HEATING:

All heating should be placed at one end of the cage and controlled by a thermostat. This creates a thermal gradient. This is vital for the survival of the occupants. If the cage is either too hot or to cool the snake has a place to retreat to. Excessive heat will kill your snake very quickly - ideal temperatures for the Inland Taipan are approximately 32 degrees Celsius at the warm end of the cage and 27 degrees at the cool end of the cage.


Ways of heating include light bulb(s) placed at one end of the cage connected to a thermostat. A light makes viewing easier as well as heating. A heat mat or heat cord at one end, or both the light bulb and the heat mat/cord. Any light globes inside the enclosure should be placed in such a way that the snake is unable to come in contact with them. A mesh type globe cover is ideal as it prevents the snake coming in direct contact with the globe but the allows the heat generated from the light to escape. Uncovered light bulbs usually result in nasty burns to the snake. Heat cord under the enclosure is another way to heat the cage effectively. Heat rocks are commercially available, however we do not recommend using heat rocks with any animal as they are not reliable and may cause fire. We use heat cord in a rack system for our younger animals and for our older Inland taipans in cages we run heat cord under tiles on the bottom of the enclosure.


LIGHTING:

If heating the cage with a globe set up, the cage should have dark coloured globes

such as green or blue. This will then not interrupt its photoperiod. The Inland Taipan is mainly diurnal (active during the day). Thus the photoperiod of 14 hours light to 8 dark in summer and 12 hours light and 12 dark in winter is acceptable.


COOLING:

Cooling allows for the males sperm to be produced and the in the females ova to be made. The temperature of cooling should drop to about room temperature. However this drop should not be sudden, by turning on the heat for 4 hours in the morning for 4 weeks either side of the cooling period (1-month) this will allow the snake to gently go into torpor. (In Australia most reptiles don't truly go into hibernation.) Inland Taipans should be cooled from early April. While being cooled the animal should not be handled or fed. If fed, the food may kill the snake as it may not be digested properly, and may just sit and rot within its stomach as heat also plays a role in digestion. You SHOULD NOT cool juveniles, gravid (pregnant), sick or under weight individuals as this can lead to the death of the snake. When your Inland Taipan is an adult (over 135cm Snout to Vent (S.V.L.)) it should be cooled in the winter months.


FEEDING:

Your snake should be feeding on mice or small rats. The size of the prey item and the amount of them is dependant on the snake in question. As juveniles, they should be fed weekly, but once at adult size this can be reduced to once every fortnight. A suitable feed for the snake is a meal that will cause a slight bulge in the snake’s mid body. Inland taipans will also readily take day old chicks, quail and young rabbits. Food should generally not be offered while the snake is coming into or having a slough.



REPRODUCTION:

Male introductions should be from May - October, but they will continue to mate until January. The males can be removed in and out of the females enclosures, allowing them time to rest. Inland taipans are oviparous and they are able to double-clutch. The clutch can vary from 8 - 23 eggs with an average clutch of about 14 eggs. These take about 64 days to hatch when incubated at 30 degrees Celsius.


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Coastal Taipan, Oxyuranus microlepidotus

References and recommended reading:

Ehmann H. 1992 Encyclopedia of Australian Animals - Reptiles, Angus & Robertson, Pymble

Eipper S.C 2012 A Guide to Australian Snakes in Captivity - Elapids & Colubrids, Reptile Keeper Publications, Burleigh Heads

Eipper S.C & Eipper T 2019 A Naturalist's Guide to the Snakes of Australia, John Beaufoy Publishing, Oxford

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